Each Chef Ought to Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.